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Porsche 911 GT3 RS

Porsche 911 GT3 RS

I mean 518 hp NA flat-six screaming to 8,800 rpm with a DRS wing ripped straight from Porsche's GT3 race program. This thing is bonkers, fr.

S1
Class
RWD
Drivetrain
518 hp
Power
2024
Model Year
1,450 kg
Weight
4.0L Flat-6
Engine

Vehicle Specs

SpecValueNotes
Speed8.2Pulls hard up top but that big wing is draggy, ngl
Handling9.5Rear engine puts the weight right where you want it, active aero means grip for days and stuff
Acceleration8.5NA flat-6 builds power all the way to 9,000 rpm, sounds insane doing it, fr
Launch8.0All that weight sitting on the rear wheels kinda helps you get off the line
Braking9.2PCCB carbon ceramics, honestly some of the best stoppers in S1
Off-Road2.5Safari 911 this ain't, lol
PI (Stock)870High S1, basically knocking on S2's door

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • NA 4.0L flat-6 screams to 9,000 rpm, sounds like a proper race car, fr
  • DRS wing cuts drag on the straights, active aero in S1 is kinda busted
  • Rear-engine layout lets you get on the power stupid early out of corners, I mean stupid early
  • PCCB brakes are some of the best in the game, late braking feels like cheating
  • Absolute scalpel on technical circuits, rewards clean lines like nothing else, tbh

Cons

  • RWD, lift-off oversteer is real and it WILL punish you, bro
  • Stiff as hell on anything that isn't butter-smooth tarmac
  • Slower top end than the turbo S1 crowd, they'll pull away on long straights
  • Needs smooth inputs, mash the throttle like a caveman and you're spinning
  • Pricey compared to other S1 cars in the Autoshow

Best Tuning Setup

Tuning setups vary by track, class, and driving style. For general guidance, see our Tuning Guide. For community-shared setups, check the Tuning Share Codes page. Specific tuning data for this vehicle is being compiled.

How to Get It

Autoshow

Grab it for 300,000 CR at the Autoshow, available right from the jump.

Seasonal

Shows up in Porsche Festival Playlist championship events.

Wheelspin

Super rare Super Wheelspin drop, like 1% chance, don't hold your breath.

Best Events For This Car

Event TypeRatingNotes
Road Racing (S1)S-TierHonestly the benchmark for S1 circuit racing, IMO
Speed ZonesS-TierRear-engine grip plus DRS, speed zones feel like cheating
Street Scene (S1)A-TierRWD keeps you honest but the chassis talks to you, you always know what it's doing
Speed TrapsB-TierThat big wing kills your straight-line speed, no way around it
Drift ZonesC-TierYeah you can slide it, but this car was born for grip
Dirt RacingD-TierTrack suspension on dirt, it's like wearing dress shoes on a hiking trail

Map Locations Where This Car Excels

Real Car History & Background

So the 992-gen 911 GT3 RS dropped in 2022 and it's honestly the most unhinged road-legal 911 Porsche has ever signed off on. 4.0L naturally aspirated flat-six, 518 hp, revs to 8,800 rpm, individual throttle bodies so the response is instant. But the real flex is that rear wing, swan-neck mounted, hydraulically adjustable DRS unit lifted straight from the 911 GT3 R race car. Front suspension got double wishbones too, first time on a production 911, borrowed from the 911 RSR that won Le Mans. Porsche says 860 kg of downforce at 285 km/h and the whole thing weighs just 1,450 kg, I dunno if that's the record or whatever but it's up there. In FH6 the GT3 RS is basically the S1 circuit racing king, I think, maybe the Senna is quicker but for pure driving feel nothing comes close and stuff. The steering feel, I'm not even exaggerating, is so detailed you can practically feel the curb paint through your wheel, you know. And the DRS adds a legit strategic layer on long straights, pop it at the right moment and you're shaving tenths every single lap. Probably why you see so many of these in online lobbies.

In-Depth Driving Impressions

Look, this car rewards prep like nothing else in S1, you know. You can't just yeet it into corners and hope for the best like you can with an AWD build. Every corner needs a plan, where you're braking, when you're turning in, when you're getting back on the gas, all that stuff. Nail the sequence and the lap time just appears. Miss your braking point by even a few meters and you're either running wide and slow or sideways and slower. FH6's rewind button is your best friend here, hit a corner clean, rewind, try it five different ways until you kinda feel what the chassis actually wants. Once it clicks and muscle memory takes over, the car stops feeling like something you're fighting and starts feeling like a scalpel you're using to carve up lap times.

Nobody buys a GT3 RS to go rallying, right. But FH6's Cross Country series doesn't care what you want, it'll throw mixed surfaces at you anyway, I guess. When the tarmac disappears, drive it like a rally car, brake early on the loose stuff, flick it in Scandinavian style, and use the throttle to get the rear rotating and stuff. The back end slides way more than you'd think on gravel, that's actually a good thing, lean into it. Moment you're back on asphalt the grip snaps right back. Watch out for that transition tho. I've binned it more times than I want to admit not in the dirt itself but in the first paved corner after, when I forgot the car had grip again and drove it like a grandma or whatever.

Launching this thing is more of a conversation than a command, tbh. Too many revs and the tires just go up in smoke. Too few and you bog like crazy. Here's the technique I've found works: hold it at 3,000 to 3,500 rpm depending on surface, feed the clutch in smooth on green, and wait a full beat before you bury the throttle. You're gonna lose the first 20 meters to every AWD car on the grid, every single time. By 100 meters tho, you're reeling them back in hard. I mean the GT3 RS makes its money from 100 to 250 km/h, not 0 to 100. Set up your drag tune's gearing to exploit that mid-range monster pull instead of chasing a launch number you're never gonna hit anyway.

Handling gets a 9.5 out of 10 and honestly that feels about right, I think. Turn-in is instant without being twitchy, and the mid-corner grip just keeps holding way past the point where you think the tires should've checked out.

The brakes are legit one of the best parts, you know, consistent, powerful, and they don't fade even in those 10+ lap endurance races.

Upgrade Path & Build Guide

For about 279,000 CR you can turn this thing from a decent stock S1 car into an actual class leader. The trick is spending credits in the right order. Tires first. Then weight. Then suspension. Power comes last. My priority list: race slicks, max weight reduction, race ARBs, aero (splitter and wing), ECU remap. Set aside around 279,000 CR for this baseline build.

Budget 100k CR build — Race tires (35k), race suspension (28k), weight reduction stage 2 (22k), and a used sport turbo from the auction house (15k). Skip the aero at first, the PI jump isn't worth it until you've got the mechanical grip dialed in. This setup gets you like 85% of the way to a full build for roughly half the price. Add aero and engine internals down the road when you've got more credits.

So yeah that's the budget path.

Vintage racer vibe: period-correct mods only, no engine swap, no modern aero, just suspension, tires, light tuning, that sort of thing. Gives you a driving feel that modern maxed-out builds can't touch, honestly, I guess it depends if you care about lap times or just wanna experience what an old-school 911 feels like but the vibe is unmatched.

Engine swap options are kinda limited but the Racing I6T (inline-six turbo) is the sneaky good pick. Similar weight to stock, smoother power delivery, and the exhaust note actually fits the car's personality way better than the V8 swap. A fully maxed GT3 RS, every upgrade, budget be damned, runs you somewhere between 280,000 and 450,000 CR depending on what you pick and how lucky you get at the auction house.

Pro Driving Tips & Techniques

For Mountain Pass downhill runs, run rear tire pressure about 1.5 PSI lower than the front. That extra rear contact patch makes a real difference getting the power down on corner exit, or something like that, I dunno the physics behind it but it works.

Turn off the racing line assist once you actually know the track. The suggested line is way too conservative, it brakes earlier and turns in later than what this car can actually handle, I think they designed it for beginners or whatever.

The chassis can handle way more speed than the stock engine gives you, I think. Once you've really learned the stock setup, throw another 30 to 40 hp at it, the suspension can absolutely deal with the extra pace, maybe even more tbh.

If you're on a wheel, set rotation to 540 degrees for this car. 900 feels lazy and numb, 360 is way too twitchy. 540 is the sweet spot for precision and response, I dunno why but it just works.

Feed the throttle like you're squeezing a trigger in an FPS, one smooth progressive pull instead of treating it like an on/off switch. Honestly probably the single best tip I've got for this car, fr.

FH5 vs FH6: What Changed

FH5FH6
ClassS1S1
Power518 hp525 hp
Weight1,450 kg1,450 kg
PI850860
Engine4.0L NA Flat-64.0L NA Flat-6

Key Changes in FH6

  • to 992 GT3 RS spec active DRS wing now functional
  • flat-6 audio is sharper — the 9,000 RPM scream is more visceral
  • rear-engine dynamics: more lift-off rotation, more trail-braking character
  • New Weissach Package with visible carbon fiber

The 992 GT3 RS builds on the already brilliant 991.2 from FH5. The DRS wing is now functional and the flat-6 at 9,000 RPM sounds angrier than ever. Still the benchmark for driver engagement in S1.

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