Toyota Supra MK4 Tuning Guide — Best Setup for FH6

Class Range: B - S1 | Base HP: 320 | Drivetrain: RWD | Weight: 1,510 kg | Best Class: A

You know those cars that everyone hypes so much you almost want to hate them out of spite? Yeah, the MK4 Supra is one of those. Except here's the problem — it actually deserves every bit of the hype. I've spent more hours tuning this car than I'd like to admit, and I keep coming back to it because when you get the setup right, the MK4 punches so far above its class that it feels almost unfair.

In FH6, the Supra sits in this sweet spot where the 2JZ-GTE engine can be built to absurd horsepower levels without completely ruining the handling. The long wheelbase and relatively wide track give you stability that most JDM cars from this era just don't have. The stock twin-turbo setup is fine for B class, but once you start climbing into A and S1, you'll want to swap to a single turbo — the lag is a bit worse but the top-end pull more than makes up for it. And yes, the internet joke about "2JZ, no shit" applies here. This engine will take 800, 900, even 1000+ horsepower without breaking a sweat. The chassis? That's what we need to talk about.

The biggest challenge with the Supra in FH6 isn't power — it's putting that power down. The stock suspension is too soft for track work, the open differential is useless once you add boost, and the rear tires will light up in third gear if you're not careful with the throttle. But nail the suspension setup, get the diff locked up properly, and this car transforms into a grip monster that can hang with purpose-built sports cars costing three times as much. The MK4 is the ultimate "built, not bought" statement piece, and in FH6's tuning system, you can build one hell of a statement.

Best Tuning Setups by Class

My honest recommendation: keep it in A class. That's where the Supra truly shines. At 520 hp with a well-sorted chassis, you get this beautiful balance of usable power and predictable handling that makes every corner feel rewarding. S1 is fun if you want to bully supercars in a 90s Toyota, but the chassis starts showing its age at those speeds. S2 is more of a meme build — hilarious on the highway, terrifying in the corners. You've been warned.

Tuning Parameters — The Detail Work

Tire Pressure

Front: 28.5 PSI | Rear: 28.0 PSI. The Supra is front-heavy with the iron-block 2JZ, so you need slightly more pressure up front to prevent the outside edge from rolling over in hard corners. Drop the rears half a PSI for better traction out of slow corners. Don't go below 27 PSI or you'll overheat the tires in longer races.

Gearing

Final drive: 3.80 (A class), 3.45 (S1). The stock gearing is way too long — Toyota geared this thing for the autobahn, not a race track. Shorten the final drive and adjust individual gears so you're hitting the redline at the end of the longest straight on your target tracks. For most FH6 circuits, you want first gear to top out around 80 km/h and sixth gear to max at your car's actual top speed, not some theoretical number you'll never reach. I set 1st to 3.20, 2nd to 2.10, 3rd to 1.55, 4th to 1.20, 5th to 0.95, 6th to 0.78.

Alignment

Camber: -2.0 front, -1.5 rear. The MacPherson strut front end needs more negative camber than you'd think to combat understeer mid-corner. Toe: 0.1 front, -0.1 rear. That tiny bit of front toe-in helps straight-line stability, while the rear toe-out (yes, negative, not a typo) helps the car rotate on corner entry. Caster: max it out at 7.0 — more caster means better steering feel and more dynamic camber gain when you turn the wheel.

Anti-Roll Bars

Front: 28.5, Rear: 32.0. Stiffer rear bar than front is the golden rule for RWD cars, and the Supra needs it even more than most. The stiffer rear bar reduces understeer by transferring weight to the outside rear tire on turn-in, which plants the rear and lets the front bite harder. If the car feels twitchy on corner exit, drop the rear bar to 30.0.

Springs

Front: 650 lb/in, Rear: 580 lb/in. The Supra is heavy for a sports car at over 1,500 kg, so it needs proper spring rates. The front is stiffer to handle the engine weight and brake dive. Ride height: drop it about 1.5 inches from stock — any lower and you'll bottom out on FH6's bumpier roads. The coastal highways are smooth, but Guanajuato's cobblestones will destroy your splitter if you go too low.

Damping

Rebound: 8.5 front, 8.0 rear. Bump: 5.5 front, 5.0 rear. The rebound/bump ratio should be around 1.6:1 for a track-focused setup. Higher rebound keeps the chassis controlled over undulations without making the ride harsh. If you're running on dirt or mixed-surface events, drop both by 2.0 across the board.

Aero

Front splitter: race spec, cornering-focused. Rear wing: Forza-spec adjustable wing set to 80% downforce. The MK4's body generates lift at high speed with the stock aero — not ideal when you're pushing 300+ km/h. The wing is non-negotiable for S1 and above. For A class, you can get away with minimum downforce if you're confident in your throttle control.

Brakes

Balance: 52% front, Pressure: 105%. The Supra's weight transfer under braking is significant thanks to that iron block up front. Slight front bias keeps the rear from stepping out when you trail-brake into corners. Race brakes are mandatory above A class — the stock brakes will fade halfway through a 5-lap race.

Differential

Accel: 75%, Decel: 35%. This is where the magic happens for RWD cars. High accel lock means both rear wheels get power coming out of corners, which is essential when you're putting down 500+ horsepower through two contact patches. The relatively low decel lock (35%) means the diff opens up under braking, so the car still turns in nicely without pushing wide. If you're getting corner-entry understeer, drop the decel lock to 25%.

Best Race Types for the Supra

The MK4 Supra eats road racing and street scene events for breakfast. Medium-to-high-speed circuits with flowing corners are its natural habitat — think the coastal highways and resort circuits. It's also surprisingly good at highway pulls and speed traps thanks to the 2JZ's top-end power delivery. Drag racing? Absolutely. With a proper drag tune (slightly different from what I've outlined here), the Supra is one of the fastest RWD drag cars in the game. What it doesn't love: tight technical circuits with lots of hairpins, like Guanajuato's old town section. The long wheelbase makes it feel like you're piloting a limousine through those narrow streets. Dirt racing is doable but not ideal — the RWD layout and turbo power delivery make it a handful on loose surfaces.

Tuning Share Codes

I'm constantly iterating on my tunes as I find better setups, so rather than posting codes that'll be outdated in a week, here's what I suggest: post your best Supra tune share codes in the comments below with the class and what track you tuned it for. The FH6 tuning community is weirdly collaborative for a racing game — someone out there has probably already solved whatever handling issue you're fighting. If you've got a killer A-class Supra tune that dominates on Playa Azul, drop the code. I'll test the best ones and update this guide with community-vetted codes.

Common Tuning Mistakes

Chasing peak horsepower numbers. I see this constantly — people swap in the biggest turbo, max out the engine upgrades, and end up with 1,200 hp and a car that can't go around a corner without spinning. The 2JZ makes power easily. Making that power usable is the hard part. A 600 hp Supra with a balanced chassis will beat a 1,000 hp Supra with no handling upgrades on any track with corners. Every single time. Build for the class limit, not for the dyno sheet.

Ignoring the differential. The stock open diff is the single worst part of the MK4 in FH6. Upgrading to a race differential and actually tuning it is worth more lap time than 50 extra horsepower. Don't skip this. A locked diff transforms the car's behavior on corner exit.

Too much rear camber. People look at the rear suspension geometry and think "more camber = more grip." With the Supra's multi-link rear, anything beyond -1.8 degrees actually reduces your contact patch under acceleration because the suspension squats and gains negative camber dynamically. Keep it at -1.5 and let the geometry do its job.

Drag tires on a circuit tune. Yes, drag radials give you incredible straight-line grip. No, they don't work on a road course. The sidewalls are too soft, the car rolls over onto the shoulder in corners, and your lap times will be worse than stock tires. Use semi-slicks for grip builds or sport tires if you need to save PI for power upgrades.

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