Dodge Challenger SRT Demon Tuning Guide — Best Setup for FH6

Class Range: A - S2 | Base HP: 840 | Drivetrain: RWD | Weight: 1,930 kg | Best Class: S1 (Drag)

The Dodge Challenger SRT Demon is the spiritual opposite of every European hypercar. Where the Jesko is a surgical instrument, the Demon is a sledgehammer. 840 horsepower from a supercharged 6.2-liter Hemi V8 that sounds like it's actively trying to tear itself apart. This is the car you buy when you want to do one thing — go fast in a straight line — with maximum theater.

And here's the thing: it's terrible at everything except drag racing. The handling is atrocious, the brakes are overwhelmed by the weight, and the transmission feels like a tractor. But on a drag strip, the Demon is the king of S1 class. Tuning the Demon is all about the launch — if the car doesn't hook up in the first 60 feet, you've already lost.

Best Tuning Setups by Class

S1 (900) — Drag Strip King

The ultimate S1 drag build. Soft rear springs for maximum squat, full diff lock, tall rear ride height creates wedge for weight transfer.

S1 (900) — Roll Racing

For highway roll racing. Slightly firmer rear to prevent excessive squat at 300+ km/h.

Key Tuning Parameters

Engine & Power

The supercharged Hemi provides instant boost — no lag to manage — but the supercharger consumes significant engine power just to turn the blower. Upgrading to a race supercharger adds boost pressure but also increases parasitic loss. I prefer keeping the stock supercharger and spending PI on weight reduction and tires. The engine responds extremely well to camshaft upgrades — the stock cam leaves 50-80 hp on the table.

Suspension & Handling

Drag suspension is backwards from circuit suspension. You want rear springs as soft as possible without bottoming out — 250 lb/in is my starting point. Front springs should be stiff (600-650) to prevent the nose from lifting. Rear ride height should be 3-5 clicks higher than front for permanent forward rake. Bump damping: extremely soft rear (2-3), stiff front (7-8).

Gearing Strategy

2nd gear is the money gear — it should take you from ~50 km/h to ~120 km/h, covering the bulk of the quarter-mile. You should cross the finish line at redline in 4th gear. If you're grabbing 5th before the traps, your final drive is too short.

Common Tuning Mistakes

• Circuit-style suspension on a drag build. Stiff all around = zero weight transfer = no traction.
• Too much rear tire pressure. 18-20 PSI gives a bigger contact patch for launch grip.
• AWD swap without gearing changes. AWD adds drivetrain loss — shorten final drive to compensate.