Lamborghini Countach LPI 800-4 Tuning Guide — Best S1/S2 Setup

Class Range: S1 - S2 | Base Horsepower: 814hp | Drivetrain: AWD | Weight: 1,595kg | Best Class: S1

I know what you're thinking. "Isn't the Countach that wedge-shaped block from the 70s? How did it end up with 800 hp?" Right — this LPI 800-4 is the modern Countach Lamborghini built in 2021, based on the Aventador chassis, with a naturally-aspirated V12 plus a 48V electric motor for 814 hp total. In essence it's a Sian wearing a Countach skin. Don't get me wrong, that's not a bad thing. The Sian is an S2-class beast in FH6, and this Countach in S1 class is basically a stat-check on the whole field.

But that's exactly the problem. 814 hp stock is way too much for S1 — you have to actively pull power back to stay under 900 PI. I've tried a few approaches: detune the power and keep good tires, or keep the power and run worse tires. The conclusion was clear — detune the power. The V12's linear naturally-aspirated delivery is this car's biggest asset, and if you save PI by running cheap tires you turn it into an unpredictable torque monster. Cap the power around 750 hp and pour the rest of the PI into suspension and tires, and a 750 hp Countach is nearly unbeatable in S1.

In S2, the Countach can unleash its full 814 hp or even go further with upgrades, but the competition changes — McLaren P1, Porsche 918, LaFerrari, all thousand-horsepower hybrid hypercars. The Countach's AWD system is a lifeline in S2 — its corner-exit traction beats every RWD rival. But its weight and relatively basic suspension design mean it loses to more track-focused rivals in high-speed corners. For S2, upgrade the suspension and aero; you can leave the power alone — 814 hp is enough.

Best Tuning Setup by Class

S1 is the sweet spot. 750 hp is the most comfortable to drive — throttle response is quick without being violent, and the way the V12's sound travels through the 7-speed ISR gearbox to all four wheels is unlike any turbo car. For S2, at minimum upgrade the suspension and semi-slick tires, otherwise the handling score won't climb and you'll get eaten alive in the deep end of S2.

Tuning Parameters — The Details Matter

Tire Pressure

Front: 32.0 PSI, Rear: 31.0 PSI. The Countach is AWD but rear-weighted (roughly 43:57), so front and rear pressures should be close but not identical. Front 32 and rear 31 both land around 35-36 PSI when hot — for semi-slicks, slightly higher pressure sharpens steering response, and steering response is exactly what this car needs most. Understeer on turn-in is the classic AWD Lamborghini flaw; tire pressure helps a little but won't cure it.

Gearing

Final Drive Ratio: 3.55 (S1), 3.70 (S2). The naturally-aspirated V12 redlines at 8,500 RPM, and you need to keep the engine in the 5,500-7,500 RPM band through corners — that's where the V12's sweet spot lives. 3.55 pairs perfectly with the detuned S1 build, while S2's 3.70 compensates for the weight and the gap to rivals, trading a bit of top speed for corner-exit acceleration. The ISR gearbox's single-clutch shift speed is slightly romanticized in FH6, but you can still feel the brief power interruption between shifts, so gear spacing should minimize shift count — let each gear cover a wider RPM band.

Alignment

Camber: Front -2.5, Rear -2.0. This targets the understeer problem. Front -2.5 is more aggressive than most AWD cars because the Countach's nose genuinely needs more help turning in. Rear -2.0 keeps the rear contact patch flat under AWD corner exit. Toe: Front -0.1, Rear 0.1. Slight front negative toe (toe-out) helps the nose turn in, and rear positive toe stabilizes the tail. Caster: 7.2.

Anti-Roll Bars

Front: 32.0, Rear: 30.0. For an AWD supercar, the front bar has to be stiff enough to control 1,595 kg of body roll through varying G-loads. Rear 30.0 looks stiff but it controls the body attitude on AWD corner exit — too soft and the weight transfer makes the inside rear wheel slip, then the AWD system starts frantically shuffling torque front to rear, and what you feel through the wheel is the body twitching.

Springs

Front: 720 lb/in, Rear: 680 lb/in. The Countach's suspension is the Aventador's pushrod setup, which is stiff from the factory. Don't over-stiffen on top of that — pushrod suspension has short travel by nature, and springs that are too hard will rob the car of mechanical grip over undulating surfaces. Front 720 / rear 680 is a sensible balance on track; for road racing you can drop 50 from each end. Ride height: lower by 0.8 inch. It's already low — just drop it enough to eliminate the wheel arch gap.

Damping

Rebound: Front 8.8, Rear 8.2. Bump: Front 5.8, Rear 5.2. Damping needs to be strong enough to control the pushrod suspension's high-speed motion — pushrod suspension has a different motion ratio than a traditional MacPherson strut, so the actual wheel motion speed is faster than the damper motion speed. The numbers look high but the effective damping at the wheel is normal. Don't go too stiff on bump, or the tires will hop over rough surfaces.

Aero

The Countach LPI 800-4 has aero kits available — front splitter with a cornering bias, rear wing downforce at 65%. The factory aero is mostly a tribute to the classic Countach's shape; downforce wasn't the priority. Once you fit the Forza aero kit, high-speed corner confidence climbs noticeably. Don't push rear downforce past 80% — this car's top speed already isn't great in S2, and chasing downforce will get you walked on long straights.

Brakes

Balance: 56% Front, Pressure: 108%. The AWD system lets you run the brake balance slightly forward — the front and rear diffs help distribute braking force while the front brakes work. 108% pressure gives plenty of initial bite, but don't go past that, or the ABS kicks in too often and actually increases braking distance.

Differential

Center diff: 60% rear bias. Front diff: Accel Lock 30%, Decel Lock 12%. Rear diff: Accel Lock 60%, Decel Lock 35%. A 60% rear-biased center diff is the closest thing to a RWD feel while keeping the AWD corner-exit advantage. Don't run the front diff lock too aggressive — Lamborghini's AWD system is already smart enough, and adding too much front lock just makes the steering heavier and less obedient.

Best Race Types

S1 road racing is home turf — this car can run almost anything in S1. From highways to technical circuits, the only weakness is very narrow street tracks (AWD plus a wide body feels clumsy in tight lanes). In S2 it suits medium-to-high-speed circuits, while corner-heavy layouts will see it bullied by lighter rivals. Rain performance: AWD plus wide tires means rain is your cheat code, with corner-exit traction crushing every RWD car. Skip off-road — the pushrod suspension wasn't designed for jump landings. Drag racing works — AWD launches are unbeatable, but top speed isn't a strength, so your 1/4-mile record may not be as good as you'd hope.

Tuning Share Codes

The Countach tuning community hasn't really formed yet — it's not a hot car in FH6 (plenty of people think it's just a reskinned Sian). But the people who have actually figured out the Countach know how dominant it is in S1. Drop your tune codes below — I'd especially love to know if anyone's found an S2 build that can take on the P1 and the 918.

Common Tuning Mistakes

Detuning the tires instead of the power in S1. You see 814 hp in S1, think it's awesome, and keep the power — then the PI budget gets eaten by horsepower and you're stuck with cheap tires. The result is an AWD tractor that smokes its rear tires on every corner exit.

Front anti-roll bar too soft. People assume AWD means the bars should be equal front and rear, but the Countach's front axle needs more control to fight understeer. Run the front bar at least 2-3 units stiffer than the rear.

Setting positive front toe. Positive toe makes an already-understeering AWD supercar even more reluctant to turn in. The front wheels should run 0 or slight negative toe to help the nose point.

Ignoring the hybrid transition. The 48V motor assists the V12 at low speed — if you suddenly floor it, motor torque and the NA V12 hit at the same time, and the rear wheels briefly spin before the AWD system reacts. Feed the throttle progressively.

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