BMW M4 Competition

Ok so the G82 M4 Competition dropped in 2021 and honestly, the internet lost its mind over that grille. Like, you couldn't go anywhere without someone memeing on it. But here's the thing, underneath all that drama the engineering was actually cracked.

503 hp from the S58 twin-turbo I6. 650 Nm of torque. All through an 8-speed ZF auto. No manual option which kinda sucks ngl. The ZF shifts so fast you forget about it after like 10 minutes.

The chassis got way stiffer compared to the old F82. They threw in an electronically controlled M diff. And in 2022 they dropped the xDrive version, first time an M4 ever got AWD. That xDrive swap turned this thing into a tail-happy drift missile you could actually put power down with in the wet. Wild stuff.

In FH6 the M4 is one of the most flexible S1 platforms I've played with. Road racing, street scene, rally builds, drift zones if you tune it right. Honestly it just works everywhere.

200+ hours in this car. No joke. Here's the deal, you gotta slide it on purpose. Not by accident. Best way to initiate: sharp lift on corner entry. No handbrake. No clutch kick. The rear steps out smooth and predictable. Kinda wild for a car with this much power tbh.

Now catch it with throttle, not steering. Seriously, I see so many people counter-steering way too aggressively. Then they do the pendulum thing. Car spits them out the other side. Don't do that. Hold a tiny correction angle and modulate the slide with your right foot. More gas equals more angle, ease off and the rear tucks back in. Once you figure out the rhythm it's one of the most satisfying drift cars in the game. And btw, FH6's tire smoke in photo mode from the rear three-quarter angle looks insane. Save those replays.

Tbh the best way to think about driving this car is like a rhythm game. Not a racing game. Each corner is three inputs: brake, turn, throttle. The timing between them is the whole skill gap. Brake too hard and the nose dives, rear goes light, car won't rotate. Too soft and you just sail past the apex looking stupid.

The sweet spot I've found: firm initial squeeze on the brake, then trail off as you approach the turn-in. Weight transfers forward smooth. The rear gets just light enough to rotate. And you're back on gas while the AWD cars are still understeering past the apex. So satisfying when you nail it.

Did a bunch of comparison runs on Lake District with this against AWD cars at the same PI. The AWD cars feel easier for sure, point, shoot, repeat. No brain required. But check the delta. The M4 carries 5-8 km/h more mid-corner speed through every sweeper. Cuz it's not dragging a driven front axle through the turn. That adds up over a lap fr.

Through the esses at the top of Mountain Descent the car just flows curb to curb. Something AWD front-axle drag completely ruins. The tradeoff though, you gotta respect rain, dirt, and kerbs that AWD cars just ignore. Pick your battles. You'll win way more than you lose.

Ngl the aftermarket for this car goes crazy deep. You can build it like five different ways, grip build, drift missile, drag setup, rally-ish thing, and each one feels like a completely different car. Here's how I approach it.

Quick rule: aero first on fast tracks. Weight reduction first on technical circuits. You're gonna want both eventually anyway. Budget about 261,000 CR for the baseline.

Power-first approach, this is my personal favorite. Throw every engine mod at it before touching chassis. Turbo conversion, intercooler, intake, exhaust, cams, ECU, all that stuff.

Yeah it'll be a handful on stock suspension and tires. Basically driving a missile with bicycle handling. But on speed traps and highway pulls you will absolutely gap everyone. Once the motor is maxed out, then add Race tires and suspension to actually make the power usable. Final PI around 890. Total cost somewhere between 220,000 and 320,000 CR depending on auction house luck.

Drag-strip special build: drag tires, all power mods, longest gearing you can fit. Heat the tires at the line. Manage wheelspin through first and second. The top-end pull will legit surprise AWD cars that jumped you off the line.

Engine swaps are kinda limited. The Racing I6T is the dark horse nobody talks about. Similar weight to stock. Power delivery is way smoother, less lag, things like that. And the exhaust note fits the car's character better than throwing some random V8 in there. Fully maxed M4, every single upgrade, no budget limit, runs about 280,000 to 450,000 CR depending on swap choices and auction house luck.

Throttle control tip that changed everything for me: feed it like you're squeezing a trigger in an FPS. One smooth progressive pull. Not an on/off switch. Mash the gas and you'll be facing backwards before you can blink. Trust me on this one.

Rain driving sucks in this car. But here's the trick: short-shift every gear by 1,000 rpm. Less torque at the wheels. Rear tires don't hydroplane on corner exit. Simple fix. Works every time.

Download a top-100 rivals ghost and just follow it for five laps. Don't try to beat it. Just follow. You'll spot braking points, lines, throttle timing, stuff like that you never would've thought of on your own. And I learn something new every time I do this, no joke.

Stay on the road, man. I know FH6 has those tempting dirt connectors between roads. You're thinking "it's shorter" but trust me, the off-road rating on this car is so bad you'll lose way more time bouncing through dirt than you'd save. Not worth it, ever.

Turn off the racing line once you actually know the track. The suggested line is mad conservative, brakes way too early, turns in way too late, such things like that. The car's actual limit is way beyond what the assist tells you. Look, you're leaving seconds on the table. Go find them.

The M4 gets its LCI update in FH6. More power, more rear bias, and the engine actually sounds like an S58 now instead of a synthesized approximation. A meaningful step up from the FH5 version.