Koenigsegg Agera RS Tuning Guide — Best S2/X Setup

Class Range: S2 - X | Base Horsepower: 1,360 | Drivetrain: RWD | Weight: 1,395 kg | Best Class: S2

I've spent way too many hours trying to make this thing drivable, so let me save you the trouble. 1,360 hp. Rear-wheel drive. 1,395 kg. Put those three numbers together and the word physics hands you back is "undriveable." But the Agera RS — the Swedish monster that set a production car top speed record in 2017 (447 km/h two-way average) — is one of the most rewarding cars to tune in FH6's S2 class. Not because it's easy to drive, but because the process of getting it right forces you to relearn the physical limits of rear-wheel drive.

The heart of the Agera RS is that 5.0-liter V8 twin-turbo — designed and built by Koenigsegg in-house, aluminum block, dry sump, punching out 1,360 hp at 1.4 bar of boost. Unlike Bugatti's approach of "throw displacement and boost at it until the horsepower shows up," Koenigsegg's V8 is lighter and loves to rev — peak power arrives at 7,800 rpm. It's paired with Koenigsegg's unique 7-speed single-clutch gearbox (not a dual-clutch, but a synchronized single-clutch sequential), which shifts lightning fast but demands a precise sense of your revs.

Between S2 and X class in FH6, the Agera RS faces serious competition — the Jesko, Chiron Super Sport, and Venom F5 all live in this bracket. Where does the Agera RS win? Power-to-weight — nearly 1,000 hp per ton. Aero — the factory active rear wing and diffuser are already extremely efficient. Center of gravity — the carbon monocoque keeps it absurdly low. The downsides are just as obvious: RWD versus AWD rivals, and Koenigsegg's signature "extremely restrained electronics" philosophy — the ESP barely makes its presence felt, and more often than not you're surviving on the chassis rather than the nannies.

Best Tuning Setup by Class

The 1,100 hp detuned build in the first row confuses a lot of people — "why would you make a Koenigsegg slower than stock?" Because 998 PI isn't unlimited. If you cram 1,360 hp into 998 PI, you leave almost nothing in the budget for chassis and tires, and the result is a car that's blindingly fast in a straight line but makes you question your life choices at the first corner. Drop 250 hp, pour the PI into race tires, weight reduction and suspension, and your lap times actually improve. The 1,600 hp X-class build is purely an ultimate challenge — if you can put an X-class Agera RS in the top three on lap times, you are the god of RWD in FH6.

Tuning Parameters — Every Setting Explained

Tire Pressure

Front: 29.0 PSI, Rear: 28.5 PSI. 1,395 kg plus 1,360 hp going to the rear wheels — the rears don't carry much weight, but they have to handle torque that's nearly ten times their own. Rear pressure has to stay low enough to let the rubber fully spread out as it heats up, maximizing the contact patch. Front at 29.0 PSI looks soft, but the Agera RS is mid-engined with a light nose, so the front tires warm up slowly. For short sprint races, raise both ends by 1.0 PSI, since the tires never fully reach temperature.

Gearing

Final Drive Ratio: 3.20 (S2). The Agera RS's stock gearing was designed to crack the 447 km/h top speed record. But a race track isn't a salt flat — you need acceleration, not top speed. A 3.20 final drive tightens the whole gear set, so sixth and seventh are no longer wasted overdrive gears. First and second still need respect — a 1,360 hp launch is already violent enough, and too short a first gear just melts the rear tires on the spot. The density of second, third, fourth and fifth is the key: make sure the engine stays in its 5,000–7,800 rpm power band through the high-speed corners common in S2 (200–280 km/h).

Alignment

Camber: Front -2.5, Rear -2.3. Standard fare for mid-engined RWD with extreme power. The front negative camber runs deeper than a typical mid-engine RWD setup — because 1,360 hp produces brutal corner-exit speeds, and the front tires take enormous lateral load mid-corner. Toe: Front -0.1, Rear 0.3. Front negative toe (toe-out) sharpens turn-in, letting the 1.4-ton mid-engine nose point decisively at the apex. Rear 0.3 toe-in is the most important setting on the Agera RS — it's your anti-spin lifeline on a 1,360 hp RWD car. Go below 0.2 and you'll regret it. Caster: 6.5.

Anti-Roll Bars

Front: 26.0, Rear: 28.0. Same as other mid-engine RWD cars — a slightly stiffer rear bar gives you rotation through the corner. These numbers are on the soft side for a car that can do 400+, because at extreme high-speed corners (300 km/h and up) bars that are too stiff make the body twitchy over every bump in the road. If you only race on tracks under 200 km/h, add 2.0 to both ends.

Springs

Front: 600 lb/in, Rear: 680 lb/in. The standard front-to-rear split for a mid-engine car. The Agera RS's carbon chassis is extremely stiff, so the springs don't need the heavy rates a big GT would carry. Ride height: lower by 1.0 inch. The factory ride height is already track-oriented; dropping 1.0 inch lowers the center of gravity slightly without sacrificing suspension travel. Lower it too much and you'll disrupt the factory aero airflow under the floor.

Damping

Rebound: Front 8.0, Rear 8.5. Bump: Front 5.0, Rear 5.5. Rebound runs conservative for S2/X class — because the Agera RS's top speed is so high, rebound that's too stiff makes the body react violently to every millimeter of road surface at 400 km/h. Bump is kept restrained for the same reason, keeping the tires planted over high-speed bumps. On pure low-speed tracks you can add 1.5 to bump.

Aero

The Agera RS comes with an active rear wing and a large diffuser from the factory. In FH6, keep the stock aero package — Koenigsegg's aero design is already world-class, and third-party aero pieces just look out of place. In the aero settings, pick the "grip" bias so the wing generates more downforce at low speed. Don't pick the "speed" bias — a 1,360 hp RWD car needs that downforce at high speed to keep the tail planted.

Brakes

Balance: 50% Front, Pressure: 100%. Mid-engine RWD braking sits close to 50:50 — the centered mass keeps brake load evenly distributed across all four wheels. Carbon-ceramic brakes are standard, and 100% pressure is plenty for 1,395 kg. The Agera RS's braking points come later than other S2 cars — light weight plus carbon ceramics let you brake a dozen meters later into every corner, and that's a serious competitive edge for this car.

Differential

Accel Lock: 55%, Decel Lock: 30%. Differential tuning on a big-horsepower RWD car is counterintuitive — higher isn't always better. 55% accel lock is the balance point: enough to keep the inside rear from spinning up, but not so much that you understeer on corner exit. Decel lock at 30% runs soft because the stability electronics help control the car on entry. If you switch ESP off (recommended in X class), raise decel lock to 40%.

Best Race Types

High-speed sprints — the Agera RS's absolute home turf. Past 400 km/h, nothing in its class can touch it. Road racing — very competitive on high-speed circuits, and a test of your throttle discipline on low-speed ones. Street racing — the body is a bit wide but front turn-in response is good; usable, but you need to be careful. Rain — 1,360 hp RWD plus a wet track equals the laws of physics telling you "no." Drag racing — a RWD launch will lose to AWD Bugattis and Lamborghinis, but the mid-range and top-end acceleration crushes everything. Drifting — thanks to 1,360 hp, with ESP off it'll drift at any angle you want, but the tires will be gone within three corners.

Tuning Share Codes

The Agera RS tuning community is FH6's high bar — people who can tune this car well are usually already S2-class veterans. When you share a code, note your target top speed and track type — a high-speed oval setup and a technical circuit setup are two completely different worlds.

Common Tuning Mistakes

Tire pressure too high. A lot of people run high pressures in S2 chasing top speed. For the Agera RS that's a disaster — a smaller rear contact patch plus 1,360 hp of torque means anything past two-thirds throttle is an instant donut. Give up 5 km/h of top speed before you give up rear tire grip.

Ignoring exhaust temperature management. The V8 twin-turbo carries brutal thermal load under sustained full throttle. FH6 doesn't directly simulate exhaust temperature, but in long races the real reason your rear tire temps spike is turbo heat radiation. Watch the rear tire temps — if they go past 100 degrees, adjust your driving style.

Using naturally-aspirated supercar gearing logic. A twin-turbo V8's torque curve is completely different from an NA car — peak torque starts at 3,000 rpm and runs flat to 6,500 rpm. You don't need to stack the gears ultra-tight to keep revs up like you would on an NA car. The spacing of the gears matters more than the ratios themselves.

← Back to Tuning Guide | All Guides →