FH6 Best Cars for Every Race Type: S2 to B Class Picks
Published: May 19, 2026 · 10 min read
Choosing the Right Car for the Right Race
I've sunk way too many hours into FH6 at this point, and here's something most people don't figure out until they're 50 hours deep: every race type wants a completely different car. The S2 road monster that feels absolutely broken on asphalt? Throw it into a cross country event and you'll be eating dirt — literally. That A-class dirt beast you love? Probably can't keep up on Street Scene tarmac. I've been there, done that, not making that mistake again.
These picks aren't random. They're based on what's actually winning on the rivals leaderboard right now, plus a ton of my own testing. Quick class refresher since the game doesn't explain it that well: S2 (901-998 PI) and S1 (801-900 PI) is where you live for road racing. A (701-800 PI) and B (601-700 PI) — that's the real sweet spot for dirt and cross country, honestly. Lower power is just way easier to manage when your tires aren't touching the ground half the time. Street Scene and Drag have their own weird requirements I'll get into.
Road Racing (S2 Class)
S2 road racing. Look, this is where the fastest stuff in the game lives. Cornering speed and high-speed stability — that's what separates the good cars from the ones that make you wonder why you're suddenly backwards in a wall. I've tested basically everything in this class. Most of it's trash for actual racing.
Top S2 Road Picks
- Koenigsegg Jesko (2020) — Let's be real, this is the S2 king right now. Not even close. I've got mine maxed at S2-998 with AWD swap and race tires, and the grip is just stupid. Combined with top-end that walks away from everything on the straights. Tuning: max downforce, stiffen up the rear ARBs for rotation, 75% rear bias on the diff for stable corner exit. It's broken in the best way.
- McLaren Senna — The downforce on this thing is actually ridiculous — more than pretty much anything in its class. I've found it absolutely eats heavy braking zones and tight chicanes, places where the Jesko can feel a bit floaty. Tuning: soften the front springs a touch for better turn-in, a bit less rear toe-in so it rotates sharper.
- Porsche 918 Spyder — Hybrid AWD, so the launch is genuinely ridiculous and mid-corner traction feels glued to the road. I'd say it trades some top-end for corner exit grip. On technical circuits that's absolutely the right trade. Tuning: bump up front tire pressure for sharper turn-in, diff at 60% accel / 40% decel.
Top S1 Road Picks
- Nissan GT-R (R35) '17 — Most consistent S1 road racer I've ever driven, period. AWD platform that's predictable as hell. With the right tune it'll match RWD cars on corner exit and beat them on traction out of slow stuff every single time. Tuning: race tires, race suspension, lower ride height all the way, 65% rear diff bias.
- Porsche 911 GT3 RS '19 — Best RWD option in S1, hands down. It's lighter than the GT-R and carries more speed through chicanes. But I won't lie — it'll punish you hard if you get on the throttle too early. Tuning: max rear downforce, soften rear springs, add about 1 degree negative camber in the rear.
- Chevrolet Corvette C8 Z06 — Mid-engine grip monster, and honestly a bit underrated. Responds really well to aero tuning. If you're aggressive on corner entry this thing rewards you big time. Tuning: front splitter at max, rear wing at minimum to cut drag on the long straights.
Dirt Racing (A Class)
Dirt racing. Here's the thing — it's all about controllable power and suspension that actually moves. A-class is the sweet spot. Fast enough to be fun, not so much power that you're fighting the throttle for the entire race. I've tried S1 dirt builds and they're just... exhausting. Don't do it.
Top A Dirt Picks
- Hoonigan Ford RS200 Evolution — Queen of dirt. It's not even close, honestly. Mid-engine, stupidly light, acceleration that feels borderline broken. I've tested everything in this class and the RS200 is the fastest A-class dirt car by a real margin. Bonus: skill multiplier mastery tree, which is nice for farming points. Tuning: rally springs, soften front roll bars, 75% rear accel on diff, anti-lag turbo.
- Subaru WRX STI '15 — If you don't want the RS200 chaos, this is your car. Most balanced A-class dirt option I've found. Predictable, great weight distribution, forgives mistakes — and you're gonna make mistakes on dirt. Tuning: race rally suspension at minimum ride height, 70-30 front-rear brake bias, 65% front diff lock.
- Lancia 037 Stradale — RWD on dirt? Yeah I know, sounds insane. But this thing is surprisingly competitive. Rotates eagerly through corners. Acceleration is excellent if you can actually keep the rear end behind you. Tuning: street tires (I know, I know, but trust me they actually work here), rally springs, 85% rear accel diff, and here's the weird one — stability control ON. Yeah, ON. Leave it on. You'll thank me later.
Top B Dirt Picks
- Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI GSR — Pure dirt weapon at B-class. Short wheelbase, proven AWD, and the upgrade path is excellent. I've been running this thing for weeks and it just flat-out works. Tuning: rally tires, race rally suspension, final drive at 4.00.
- Ford Focus RS '17 — More power and more weight than the Evo. The advantage really shows on longer dirt tracks where there are actual straights. Tuning: wider rear tires, soften rear rebound, diff at 50% accel for a neutral feel.
- Hoonigan Chevrolet Bel Air — Don't sleep on this one, seriously. Wide power band, heavy chassis that just eats bumps for breakfast. Surprisingly good B-class dirt car and literally nobody talks about it. Tuning: off-road tires, reinforced cage, raise ride height about an inch from minimum.
Cross Country (A Class)
Cross country is a different beast entirely. You need trucks that survive massive jumps, deep water, and terrain that honestly makes zero sense. Long-travel suspension — that's the actual cheat code here. Everything else is secondary.
Top A Cross Country Picks
- Mercedes-Benz #24 Tankpool24 Racing Truck — Okay this thing is the meta king and it's not subtle about it. Absurd suspension travel, ridiculous ground clearance, enough power to climb stuff that shouldn't be climbable. Tuning: rally springs at max height, ARBs at minimum, 100% rear accel diff, race tires with off-road compound.
- Ford F-150 Raptor '17 — Lighter and more agile than the Tankpool. That actually matters more than you'd think in tight forest sections — the Tankpool can feel like you're steering a building through trees. Tuning: race rally suspension at max height, soft front springs, 70% front diff lock.
- Chevrolet Colorado ZR2 — Less extreme than the Tankpool and way, way easier to drive consistently. Good balance of speed and durability. If you're struggling with the Tankpool just switch to this, honestly. Tuning: off-road tires, race suspension, ARBs at 1.0 front and rear.
Top B Cross Country Picks
- International Scout 800A — Classic B-class CC truck and still one of the best. Light, nimble, climbs like a mountain goat. I've used this for probably 80% of my B-class cross country events and it's never let me down. Tuning: off-road tires, rally suspension at max height, cage reinforcement, shorter final drive.
- Jeep Trailcat — Purpose-built B-class off-roader. The stock suspension is already excellent so you don't need to do much at all. Tuning: off-road tires only (skip rally — softer compound is actually better here), minimum front downforce so you don't catch air nose-first and flip. Trust me on that one.
Street Scene (S1 Class)
Street Scene. Tight city circuits with traffic absolutely everywhere. This is my favorite race type, not gonna lie. Short wheelbase and quick acceleration are what you actually want. S1 hits the sweet spot — fast enough to be exciting, but you can still dodge traffic without needing supernatural reflexes.
Top S1 Street Scene Picks
- Hot Wheels Bone Shaker — Yeah yeah, I know it's controversial and people in the lobby will hate you. But it works and that's all that matters. Short wheelbase, massive rear tires, acceleration that's just straight-up broken compared to anything else in the class. Weaves through traffic like a motorcycle. Tuning: race tires, race suspension, full aero, 80% rear accel diff.
- BMW M4 GTS '16 — More forgiving than the Bone Shaker and nearly as quick if you're clean. Great braking and rotation for tight city corners. Tuning: street tires upgraded to semi-slicks, less rear camber, stiffer front springs.
- Lamborghini Huracán LP610-4 — AWD grip gives you way more confidence threading through traffic, and honestly that confidence matters more than raw pace in Street Scene. Excellent corner exit acceleration. Tuning: race tires, lowered suspension, 60% rear accel diff, front tire pressure +1 PSI over rear.
Drag Racing (S1 Class)
Drag racing. Completely different skill set — it's all about acceleration and top speed. Weight reduction, engine swaps, and gearing. That's literally the whole game. S1 is the most competitive drag class hands down. Best balance of power and grip you're gonna find.
Top S1 Drag Picks
- Shelby Monaco King Cobra — Undisputed S1 drag king and I don't think anyone who's actually raced it would argue. Massive V8, extreme torque, ultra-light, and the weight transfer is perfect for launches. Tuning: drag tires, race transmission with custom final drive to hit top speed exactly at the quarter mile, max rear tire width, minimum front width.
- Porsche 911 Turbo 3.3 — AWD launches make this one really consistent. It's slightly slower than the Shelby on absolutely perfect runs, but way more forgiving — and in drag racing, consistency wins more races than peak numbers. Tuning: drag tires, full weight reduction, race transmission with 6-speed gearing set up for the half mile.
- Dodge Viper ACR '16 — Best all-around drag car if you can't find the Shelby on the auction house. High top speed, strong mid-range pull. Tuning: drag tires, race diff at 100% accel, max rear downforce to kill wheel spin off the line.
Quick Reference: Best-in-Class Summary
| Race Type | Best Class | Best Overall Car | Runner-Up |
|---|---|---|---|
| Road Racing | S2 | Koenigsegg Jesko | McLaren Senna |
| Road Racing | S1 | Nissan GT-R R35 '17 | Porsche 911 GT3 RS '19 |
| Dirt Racing | A | Hoonigan Ford RS200 | Subaru WRX STI '15 |
| Dirt Racing | B | Mitsubishi Evo VI GSR | Ford Focus RS '17 |
| Cross Country | A | Tankpool24 Racing Truck | Ford F-150 Raptor '17 |
| Cross Country | B | International Scout 800A | Jeep Trailcat |
| Street Scene | S1 | Hot Wheels Bone Shaker | BMW M4 GTS '16 |
| Drag Racing | S1 | Shelby Monaco King Cobra | Porsche 911 Turbo 3.3 |
Build Your Garage Around These Picks
Honestly, grab these eight cars and you're covered for every event type in the game. Start with the A-class stuff — Hoonigan RS200 for dirt, Tankpool24 for cross country. Those events are everywhere in the early game and you'll use these cars constantly. Add the S1 Nissan GT-R for road racing once you can afford the upgrades. The S2 Jesko and S1 Shelby are endgame cars. They reward clean driving more than anything else.
Use the tuning notes as a starting point and then tweak for your own style. FH6's physics are nuanced enough that small changes actually make a real difference. One or two clicks on the diff — that's the difference between understeer city and a car that rotates exactly how you want it to. I've spent hours in the tuning menu and honestly that's half the game right there.