Turbo vs Centrifugal Supercharger — When to pick each forced induction type
Understanding turbo vs centrifugal supercharger is what separates casual players from consistent podium finishers in FH6. Most people slap on the part with the biggest stat increase and call it a day. Works fine against AI. Does not work online where everyone else did their homework. Here's what I've learned about when to pick each forced induction type after way too many hours testing.
The Decision Framework
Before you spend a single credit, answer three questions: What class am I building for? What kind of tracks? What's my driving style? A drag build wants completely different parts than a circuit build. A technical track rewards handling. A highway sprint rewards power.
| Level | PI Cost | Gain | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Street | Low | 10-15% | Budget B/C class builds |
| Sport | Medium | 20-30% | A class — best PI-to-performance ratio |
| Race | High | 35-50% | S1/S2 where every tenth matters |
Common Mistakes
- Maxing every part. A maxed S1 899 car loses to a carefully built S1 892. PI efficiency beats throwing parts at the car.
- Ignoring weight reduction. Less weight helps acceleration, braking, cornering, tire wear — literally everything.
- Wrong upgrade order. Handling first, then power, then weight. A 600 HP car that can't turn is a 600 HP car in a wall.
- Not testing between upgrades. Add one part, run a lap, check the feel. The PI system lies sometimes.
Build Templates by Class
| Class | Priority 1 | Priority 2 | Priority 3 |
|---|---|---|---|
| D/C | Tires (Street) | Weight Stage 1 | Suspension (Sport) |
| B | Tires (Sport) | Suspension (Race) | Exhaust/Intake (Sport) |
| A | Tires (Semi-Slick) | Suspension (Race) | Weight Reduction (Race) |
| S1 | Tires (Semi-Slick) | Full Race Suspension | Race Weight Reduction |
| S2/R | Race Everything | Max Aero | Engine Swap if beneficial |
Bottom line: buy the RIGHT parts, not the most expensive parts. A car 10 PI under the limit built with a plan gaps the maxed-out car with no strategy. Every single time.
Which Should You Buy in FH6?
The answer depends on what you're building your garage for. If you're building for Horizon Open competitiveness, check the current meta rankings before spending credits — the meta shifts with each seasonal update and a car that was S-tier last month might be B-tier now. If you're building for driving enjoyment, go with the car that has the more engaging driving character. Check the auction house before buying from the autoshow — many of these cars appear as seasonal rewards and can be 30-50% cheaper on the secondary market. For both cars, budget at least 80,000-120,000 CR for a full upgrade path to their competitive class. A half-built car is worse than a well-tuned car one class lower. The most important factor is how the car fits your driving style — some cars reward aggressive driving, others need smooth inputs. Test drive both in a Rivals event before committing to a build. Five laps in each car will tell you more than any spec sheet can.