B Class Cars in Forza Horizon 6 — Tier List, Drag Builds & Meta Guide
PI Range: 601-700
Honestly? B Class is the best racing in FH6 and I'll die on that hill. You've got 300-400 hp, cars weigh between 2,200 and 3,200 lbs, and you're going fast enough that you actually have to think about braking points and corner entry — but not so fast that everything's a blur and you're just reacting. It's the sweet spot. The racing is stupidly close and the guy who wins is the one who hit his apexes, not the one who copied the latest YouTube meta build.
Biggest change from FH5? RWD is back, baby. I spent probably 50 hours in FH5 and the Lancer Evo and STI were basically cheat codes — AWD gave you such a massive traction advantage off the line that bringing anything else to an online race felt like throwing. That's changed. FH6's tire model actually rewards RWD now. Better mid-corner rotation, way more predictable rear grip. I've beaten AWD Evos in my RX-7 on everything except super tight circuits, and even there it's not the slaughter it used to be.
B Class Meta Breakdown
Look, there's three ways to build a B Class car and anyone who tells you one is always best hasn't driven enough tracks:
RWD sports cars (RX-7, Supra, 370Z, M3 E46). These things eat medium and high-speed circuits alive. Better rotation mid-corner, carry more speed through sweepers, and you don't lose that 10-15 hp to AWD drivetrain loss that kills you at this PI level. The downside? Launch traction. You'll lose a couple positions off the line in multiplayer unless your launch control timing is perfect. I've lost count of how many times I've had to claw back from 4th place after turn one. But honestly, that's part of the fun.
AWD rally platforms (Lancer Evo, WRX STI, Golf R). Still the safe bet for online, I'm not gonna lie. You can mash the throttle earlier, recover from a bad line without spinning, and they're untouchable on dirt and mixed-surface events. But AWD costs you about 30-40 PI points, which means you're giving up either tires or power versus an equivalent RWD build. The Evo VI is still my go-to when I just want to relax and not think too hard.
Lightweight FWD (Civic Type R FK8, Integra Type R). Niche as hell but absolutely filthy on the right track. The new Kyoto street circuits? All those 90-degree corners and elevation changes? FWD cars just walk away from everything else out of slow turns because all the power goes straight to the ground. I ran the Ambleside ring with an Integra Type R last week and beat a field of RX-7s and Evos by over two seconds. On a high-speed track though? Forget it. You'll top out at like 145 mph and watch everyone drive past you.
Top 5 B Class Cars
| Car | Stock PI | Best Role | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2002 Mazda RX-7 Spirit R | 643 | Road racing, circuit | This is the one. Best all-around B Class car, period. The 1.3L rotary is PI-efficient because the game rates it low despite it making 276 hp — feels like cheating honestly. Slap on race tires, sport suspension, street exhaust and you're at B700 with handling that's basically perfect. One thing nobody tells you: rotary rebuilds are expensive as hell if you blow the engine in a long race. Ask me how I know. |
| 1999 Mitsubishi Lancer Evo VI | 627 | Dirt, mixed surface, rain | The safe pick and I mean that as a compliment. AWD grip means you won't spin when some random dive-bombs you into a wall, and FH6 actually gave it better off-throttle rotation than FH5 so turn-in doesn't feel like a bus anymore. It's a tick slower than the RX-7 on dry tarmac but the gap is way smaller than it was in FH5. If you're new to B Class ranked, start here. |
| 2019 Toyota GR Supra | 672 | High-speed circuits | Only 28 PI points to play with before B700 but honestly? The stock tune is so good you barely need to touch it. Throw on street tires and a sport exhaust and you're done. This thing owns tracks with long straights — the top end is ridiculous. Don't even think about taking it on dirt though. I tried once. Once. |
| 1998 Honda Integra Type R DC2 | 597 | Tight circuits, technical tracks | 103 PI to work with is a ton of room, and FWD means every bit of power goes to the ground out of slow corners. On Ambleside and Kyoto Old Town this car is straight up unfair — I've gapped RX-7s by two seconds on those tracks. The catch? It tops out around 145 mph fully built so you're a sitting duck on anything with long straights. Pick your tracks wisely. |
| 2005 Subaru WRX STI | 615 | All-around, beginner-friendly | 85 PI points to B700 gives you way more room than the Evo. It's slightly heavier but easier to drive at the limit — the rear end communicates better. Better on tarmac than the Evo, a little worse on dirt. Honestly the best car for learning B Class because it doesn't murder you for small mistakes. I still bring this out when I'm tired and just want clean laps. |
B Class Tuning Guide
Gearbox tuning actually matters in B Class, which is kind of where things get interesting. At this PI level you've got enough power that a bad final drive ratio costs you half a second to a full second per lap — and that's the difference between podium and "why do I even play this game." Here's what I do: set your final drive so you're kissing the rev limiter in top gear about 200 meters before the end of the longest straight. For most B Class circuits that puts you around 155-165 mph top speed. Don't overthink it, but don't ignore it either.
Aero: At B Class speeds aero does matter but the PI cost is steep and I'm not convinced it's always worth it. Front aero? Skip it — the downforce-to-PI ratio just isn't there yet. Rear wing on a RWD car can help with high-speed stability on tracks with fast sweepers, but on tight circuits you're better off spending those PI points on tires or weight reduction. I've tested this back and forth on the Coastal Run circuit and the lap times were basically identical — with and without the wing — so I stopped bothering.
Tire pressure: This is the first class where messing with tire pressure actually gives you something measurable. I drop 2-3 PSI from default for more grip and it's noticeable, especially on longer corners. Do NOT go below 28 PSI though — you'll cook the tires in long races and the last three laps will be a disaster. FH6 punishes under-inflation way harder than FH5 did. Found that one out the hard way during a 10-lap endurance race where my front left was gone by lap 7.